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英格兰没进决赛,但是主帅的马甲火了!如何把马甲穿出时尚范了解一下 England's soccer manager has sparked a revival of the waistcoat — here's how tailors say you should wear one

中国日报网 2018-07-12 14:27



Soccer Football - World Cup - Semi Final - Croatia v England - Luzhniki Stadium, Moscow, Russia - July 11, 2018 England manager Gareth Southgate looks dejected after the match REUTERS/Carl Recine

England soccer manager Gareth Southgate is launching a revival.


Not only has he rejuvenated an England side that had previously not reached a World Cup semi-final in 28 years, but he's also brought the waistcoat back from the dead.


British retailer Marks & Spencer (M&S) says its waistcoat sales have doubled since the World Cup began on June 14, and searches for the garment on its website are up over 100%.


Some customers even reported that M&S waistcoats had sold out in some sizes.


"Gareth's sideline style has meant our waistcoats are really scoring with our customers with sales doubling since the World Cup began," an M&S spokesperson said. "We've got enough different styles in stock for everyone to show their support for the boys."


EBay has also reported a 25% increase in searches for waistcoats and tailoring retailer TM Lewin tweeted that sales were "going through the stadium roof."

易趣网上马甲的搜索量也已经增长了25%,制衣公司TM Lewin也在其推特上表示,马甲销量已经“直冲云霄”。

England's semi-final clash against Croatia has been dubbed "Waistcoat Wednesday" by leading blood cancer charity Bloodwise.


Soccer Football - World Cup - Semi Final - Croatia v England - Luzhniki Stadium, Moscow, Russia - July 11, 2018 England manager Gareth Southgate looks dejected after the match REUTERS/Carl Recine


"As the whole country is gripped by football fever, and with Gareth's waistcoat-wearing having elevated him to the level of footballing fashionista, we thought that urging people to wear waistcoats on Wednesday would be a way of getting behind the boys at the same as raising money for a good cause," said Gemma Peters, chief executive of Bloodwise.


Southgate is something of an unlikely fashionista, though. On his new role as a style icon, Southgate told the BBC's Gabby Logan: "As a centre-half with a face like I've got, then that's a very rare position to be in. I'm not David Beckham, so, we're in trouble Gabby!"


So popular is the manager's sartorial look, though, that the craze has transcended English buyers.


"I saw him at England versus Colombia and I thought: 'He looks good,'" Ivan Novikov, a Moscow tax consultant, toldThe Telegraph. "I don't even know his name."


Soccer Football - World Cup - Semi Final - Croatia v England - Luzhniki Stadium, Moscow, Russia - July 11, 2018 England manager Gareth Southgate consoles Dele Alli after the match REUTERS/Grigory Dukor TPX IMAGES OF THE DAY




1. 确保马甲的长度能盖住衬衫。

"When wearing a waistcoat, the key things to look out for are making sure that it's long enough to cover your shirt entirely — with no gap between the waistcoat and trousers," Jack Stammers and Will Davison, the men behind the London tailors, said.


Many fans have been caught out breaking this golden rule — here's a good example of how not to wear it:


Not so chic. REUTERS / Henry Nicholls


2. 不要系腰带

Davison and Stammers also say you shouldn't wear a belt if you're opting for a waistcoat as "this can add unneeded bulk to the waist with the extra layer and also break up the line of the suit."


3. 马甲要合身,但不要太紧

The fit is also very important. Eagle-eyed viewers will notice that Southgate's vest is fitted without being tight, which Davison and Stammers say is key. "[It] can be a tricky balance. If having your suit made, request a tonal lining for the back to avoid looking like a snooker player or waiter."


The tailors say prospective waistcoat-wearers should look to another former footballer Rio Ferdinand for inspiration, who's recently been extolled by GQ for his style.


4. 留一颗扣子

One piece of waistcoat etiquette that both Southgate and Ferdinand fail to observe, though, is leaving one button on the vest unfastened — either top or bottom. It's not clear when this rule was developed, but one theory suggests it was King Edward VII who popularised the style because he was too portly to do all the buttons up.




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