《纽约时报》评选夏季水果之王，这个榜单你服气吗？

最近各地陆续开启火热模式，炎热的天气让人不免想吃些水果解暑降温。夏天的时令水果品种繁多，有多肉多汁的桃子、清凉爽口的西瓜、晶莹剔透的葡萄……你最喜欢哪一种？《纽约时报》评选出了五种最美味的夏季水果并介绍了它们不同的吃法，排在第一名的是……

第五名：覆盆子 Raspberries

They have the cheeriest and most hopeful flavor of the berries, but act fast. What looked like a basket of jewels at the market can turn to mush by the time you get to your front door. Americans seem to be forgetting how good fresh raspberry purée can be — strain and sweeten it, and you are two-thirds of the way to an ice cream sundae.

在浆果中，覆盆子的滋味最让人感到愉快和憧憬，但动作要快。在市场上看起来还像一篮宝石的覆盆子，到了你家门口可能就变得稀烂。美国人似乎要忘了新鲜的覆盆子果泥有多美味，将果肉滤出加糖，差不多就可以做出冰淇淋圣代了。

Left alone with some sugar for 15 minutes they will also give you a topping for shortcake or angel food cake, whose only near rival is a mound of macerated strawberries.

将覆盆子单独加糖腌15分钟后，也可以做水果奶油蛋糕或天使蛋糕的装饰配料，唯一能与其媲美的就是腌渍过的草莓了。

Unlike strawberries, though, raspberries don’t lose their spirit when you cook them. If you can get a flat or two at a decent price, make jam right away. But just a pint, baked with their weight in sugar at 325 degrees for 20 minutes or so and then stirred to dissolve the sugar, will make a very loose jam. It won’t keep long, but it will taste like the morning sun.

不过，与草莓不同的是，覆盆子在烹饪时不会变味。如果你能以划算的价格买到覆盆子，赶紧做果酱吧。在325华氏度（165摄氏度）温度下，一品脱覆盆子加等量糖烘烤20分钟左右，然后搅拌使糖溶解，松散的果酱就做好了。覆盆子果酱不能保存很久，但尝起来就像早晨的阳光。

第四名：桃子 Peaches

A peach is almost impossible to screw up. Before they’re ripe, peaches can slip into a salad or a skillet, where after a few minutes with butter and seasoning (allspice? fennel seed? saffron? sage?) they are ready to meet grilled duck, pork chops or a sliced ham. Once they’re soft all over, eat or cook without delay. Even a few hours in a fruit bowl on a summer afternoon is enough to fur them with mold, after which emergency measures may or may not help.

桃子几乎是不会出错的。还没熟透的桃子可以丢进沙拉或煎锅里，放上黄油和调料（甜胡椒？茴香籽？藏红花？鼠尾草？）煎几分钟，就可以用来搭配烤鸭、猪排或火腿片了。一旦桃子熟透变软后，就要立刻吃掉或烹饪。在夏日的午后，将桃子放在水果盘里几个小时就足以让它们长满霉菌。那样任何补救措施可能都不管用了。

第三名：蓝莓 Blueberries

Blueberries earn their high ranking in part by appearing so often in the wild, spread across valley meadows and mountaintop clearings. The ground-hugging, scrubby bushes have the darkest, smallest, most concentrated fruit, while the high-bush varieties will fill your hat or basket faster. A small haul can be enough for pancakes, muffins or a bowl of cereal. The other trait that raises them high on the list, though, is that even a handful pitched into anything made with stone fruits, or other berries, produces tiny explosions of flavor and color.

蓝莓之所以能获得高排名，部分原因是它们经常出现在野外，遍布山谷草地和山顶的空地。贴地生长的低矮灌木丛里有颜色最深、个头最小、甜度最高的蓝莓，而高灌木品种可以更快地装满你的帽子或篮子。一点点蓝莓就足够做煎饼、小松饼或一碗麦片了。蓝莓在夏季水果中名列前茅的另一个原因是，只要把一小撮蓝莓加入到任何用核果或其他浆果制成的食物中，就能在视觉和味觉上产生爆炸的效果。

第二名：樱桃 Cherries

Nobody shares a cherry. Its pleasures are private, from the way it rolls loose in your mouth once you pluck the stem to the sudden rush of juice — which in your first taste of the year is always more lush and complicated than you remember — to the quiet, propulsive exit of a stripped-clean pit. Pit them for a pie filling that will make you wish you’d bought 10 more pounds for the freezer. Boil them with sugar and maybe a vanilla bean, and you have a base for sodas, lime rickeys, any number of cocktails, or best of all an ice cream sauce so bright and intense that other toppings can stand down.

没人会分享一颗樱桃。樱桃的美味是私人独享的，从你掐掉它的根茎，让它在嘴里滚动，到突然涌出来的果汁，最后静静吐掉剥干净的核，每年第一次品尝到的味道总是比你记忆中的更浓郁、更有层次。将樱桃去核制成馅饼馅料，你会希望自己多买了10磅冷藏进冰箱。将樱桃和糖、香草豆一起熬煮后，可以混入苏打、青柠酒、以及多种鸡尾酒中，最棒的吃法是做冰淇淋酱，鲜亮浓郁的樱桃酱让其他配料黯然失色。

第一名：西瓜 Watermelons

You could call its flavor plain. Or one-dimensional. You could say it’s boring and still not get much argument. But complex aromatic compounds did not make the watermelon the champion of summer fruits. No, it is the watermelon’s eagerness to join any party in sight. Carve out a plug of rind, patiently feed the melon a bottle of vodka as if you were giving baby formula to a pet pig, then stopper it up and refrigerate. Saber the top off, scoop the guts out, and behold the bowl for your watermelon punch. Blend, strain, add water and lime juice — that’s agua de sandia.

你可以说西瓜的味道平淡，或者单一。说它很无趣，也不会有太多人反对。但西瓜成为夏季水果之王，并不是因为它的味道层次丰富，而是因为它是所有派对的必备品。将瓜皮切开一角，耐心地倒入一瓶伏特加，就像在给一只宠物猪喂婴儿配方奶一样，然后封好口冷藏。用刀把西瓜顶盖切掉，挖出果肉，抱紧你的西瓜，来点西瓜宾治酒吧。搅拌，过滤，加入水和酸橙汁——西瓜汁气泡水就做好了。

英文来源：纽约时报

编译：董静

审校：yaning