The devil wears Prada 《时尚女魔头》(精讲之二) [ 2007-03-07 20:53 ]
影片对白 Andy, be serious. You are
not trying. You are whining. What is it that you want me to say to you,
huh?
我观之我见 在这个片断中
Miranda 和 Nigel 对于时尚和杂志本身的评论可谓是影片中精彩的两个片段之一。这两段评论在原书中是没有的。
考考你
一展身手
文化面面观
伟大的时装设计师:Oscar de la Renta, Yves Saint
Laurent, Halston, Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Lacroix
在这个电影片断中,Miranda和Nigel都提到了几位当代伟大的时装设计师。下面就让我们一起来认识一下他们。
Oscar de la Renta (1932-)
Dominican-born U.S. fashion designer. After
studies in Santo Domingo and Madrid, he became staff designer for Cristobal
Balenciaga in Madrid. He moved to New York City in 1962 and started his own
company to produce women's ready-to-wear fashions. In 1973 he founded Oscar de
la Renta Couture and expanded into household linens, menswear, and perfumes. In
the 1970s he introduced the ethnic look with "Gypsy" and Russian themes; more
recently he has produced romantic evening clothes in taffeta, chiffon, velvet,
brocade, and fur. From 1993 to 2002 he designed couture for the house of Pierre
Balmain.
Yves Saint Laurent (1936-)
French fashion designer, born in Algeria as Yves
Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent. He established houses of couture and
boutiques in Paris and New York. He was the foremost assistant to Christian Dior
and became his successor as head of the House of Dior at the age of 21. His
early collections were noted for their extreme, maverick quality. He opened his
own Paris house in 1961, featuring the "chic beatnik" look; knitted turtlenecks;
thigh-length boots; and short jackets. He revolutionized the fashion world by
creating trousers and broad-shouldered suits that were images of power for
women. His later designs include sophisticated tweed suits, the Mondrian dress,
pleated skirts, updated peasant costumes, tuxedos for women, and heavy costume
jewelry. His focus on an androgynous look was extremely influential in the
fashion of the 1970s. He also designed for the Ballets de Roland Petit. By the
mid-1970s, at the height of his success, his design empire included sweaters,
neckties, eyeglass cases, linens, children's clothes, and fragrances. Gucci
acquired his ready-to-wear and cosmetics divisions in 2000. Saint Laurent
announced his retirement in 2002.
Halston (1932-90)
American fashion designer, b. Des Moines, Iowa as
Roy Halston Frowick; attended Indiana Univ. and the Art Institute of Chicago. In
1958 he moved to New York City, designing hats for Dilly Daché and later
(1959-68) millinery and clothing for the fashionable Bergdorf Goodman department
store. There he created several distinctive styles, most notably the pillbox hat
for Jacqueline Kennedy. Opening his own salon in 1968, Halston became one of the
most acclaimed designers of the 1970s, a favorite of movie stars, art-world
denizens, and the general public, and a disco-era celebrity in his own right.
His designs were classically simple, elegant, and chic. He introduced
Ultrasuede, popularized the cashmere twinset, caftan, halter dress, shirtwaist,
spiral skirt, and knee-length pants, and added perfumes and luggage to his
label. He also designed costumes for the Martha Graham Ballet, Dance Theatre of
Harlem, and various stage and film productions.
Karl Lagerfeld (1938-)
(Karl Otto Lagerfeld), German fashion designer. He
won a fashion award at 16, designed for couturiers Pierre Balmain (1954-58) and
Jean Patou (1958-63), then freelanced for Fendi, Krizia, and Valentino and
designed for Chloé (1959-78; 1992-97). In 1982 he was appointed head designer at
Chanel, where he revamped the classic Chanel suit into chic updated versions,
using offbeat colors and such materials as denim and leather; reinvented the
double C logo; accessorized with heaps of gold chain and pearls; and added such
items as mini- and maxiskirts, hot pants, and lace-up biker boots to the house
repertoire. The pony-tailed, sunglassed, fan-carrying Lagerfeld also has his own
KL label (launched in 1984). His lines include neckties, shoes, perfumes,
sunglasses, jewelry, and housewares. He is a skilled photographer as well, with
several published volumes.
|