手腕喷香水后相互摩擦？原来这么多年用香水的方法都错了 Renowned perfumer reveals the fragrance mistakes ALL women make - including rubbing scent into your wrists

如果你懊恼自己昂贵的香水喷在身上后没有装在瓶子里那么好闻，或者在喷完香水离家后一个小时内香味就消失了，那么你用香水的方法可能有问题。

曾调制出迪奥、巴宝莉、兰蔻等多个知名品牌热门香水的法国著名调香师弗朗西斯•库尔吉安近日在接受《Vogue》杂志采访时透露了女人使用香水的五大误区。

库尔吉安指出，要让香水释放出最美好的味道，你必须考虑你使用香水的环境以及香水所附着的衣物。不仅如此，如果你不习惯天天喷香水，你最好买小瓶装，因为香水的保质期通常只有三个月。至于如何正确使用香水，让我们来听听这位调香大师怎么说。

DON'T RUB YOUR WRISTS TOGETHER 不要摩擦手腕

If you're in the habit of spritzing your wrists and then rubbing them together, you're actually ruining the scent.
如果你习惯把香水喷到手腕上，然后将两个手腕相互摩擦，你其实是在破坏香味。

That's because the friction 'heats up the skin, which produces natural enzymes that change the course of the scent', with the top and middle notes being worst affected as well as the dry-down - the long period during which the fragrance unfolds.
这是因为摩擦“会让皮肤发热，从而产生会改变香味阶段的天然酶”，前调和中调受的影响最大，后调——香味逐渐释放的漫长过程——也会受影响。

If you're wearing a floral perfume, for instance, this heat makes it lose its crispness.
如果你用的是花香型香水，这种热度会让其丧失清新的味道。

To keep your fragrance smelling like it should, as well as making it last longer, spritz it once and then simply let it sink in.
为了让你的香水散发出它本应有的美好香气，并且让香气更持久，你只需喷一下，然后让香水自行渗入皮肤。

DON'T KEEP IT IN THE BATHROOM 不要把香水放在浴室里

Perfume is extremely sensitive to environmental changes and will be impacted by changes such as going from cold to hot.
香水对外界变化极其敏感，并会因此受到影响，比如温度由冷变热。

This process sets off 'unexpected chemical reactions within the natural ingredients' of the perfume such as patchouli, meaning your perfume will age faster and start to smell 'off'.
温度变化会引发香水的“天然原料（比如广藿香）之间意想不到的化学反应”，这意味着你的香水会“老得更快”，开始“变味”。

The best way to store your fragrance is in its original box at room temperature.
储存香水的最好方式就是放在原装盒子里，置于室温环境中。

DO OPT FOR SMALLER SIZES 选择小瓶装的香水

If you are lucky enough to have lots of bottles or you don't use your favourite perfume every day, oxygen will start to break down the molecules as it languishes on your dressing table.
如果你足够幸运，拥有许许多多瓶香水，或者你不是天天用最爱的香水，那么氧气就会开始打破香水的分子结构，使其在你的化妆台上渐渐挥发、变质。

A typical bottle has a shelf life of three months so if you're not using a perfume daily, you're best off buying a smaller variety.
典型香水的保质期是三个月，所以，如果不是天天用香水，你最好买一个小瓶装的。

Or you could decant your bigger bottles into smaller containers and keep them in the fridge to maintain perfection.
或者你可以把你的大瓶装香水分装到几个小瓶，把它们放到冰箱里，以保持完美的香味。

DO EMBRACE SYNTHETICS 选择含人造成分的香水

The idea of a perfume that boasts of being all-natural might sound appealing, but the fragrance may well let you down.
打着纯天然旗号的香水也许听着很有吸引力，但是这种香水的香味会让你失望。

Musk, which was formerly derived from animals, is probably the most popular fragrance ingredient but must be created synthetically.
麝香很可能是最受欢迎的香水原料，过去取自于动物，现在只能人工合成。

Other popular smells, such as peony, freesia, and lily of the valley, can't be extracted naturally as they don't release enough aroma so they must be re-created.
其他受欢迎的香味，比如芍药、小苍兰、铃兰，不能通过自然手段提取，因为这些花释放的香味不足，所以必须人工再造。

According to Kurkdjian the ideal formula is a blend of essential oils, absolutes, and man-made ingredients.
库尔吉安指出，最理想的香水配方是精油、净油和人工原料的混合。

DO SPRITZ IT ON YOUR HAIR 把香水喷在头发上

Perfume actually doesn't last too long on dry skin, according to Kurkdjian and as you sweat the natural oils destroy the fragrance.
库尔吉安指出，香水其实不能在干燥的皮肤上停留太久，在你流汗时，天然的油脂会破坏香味。

You can combat this by using the matching body lotion or making sure your moisturiser isn't scented so it doesn't interfere.
你可以通过使用和香水气味相配的身体乳或不含香精的润肤露来防止香味互相干扰。

If you want to ensure longevity, mist your scent lightly on your hair or on a scarf.
如果你想让香水留香时间持久，你可以把香水轻轻喷洒在头发上，或者围巾上。

'Because they move with the air, it helps with the diffusion of the scent,' he explained.
他解释道：“因为头发和围巾随风飘动，这有助于香气的弥漫。”

If you are putting perfume on your skin, target spots that are exposed to the air.
如果你把香水喷在皮肤上，最好喷在暴露在空气中的身体部位。

It's no good putting it on pulse points such as the wrists and inner elbows if they're covered up.
如果手腕或手肘被衣物覆盖的话，把香水喷在手腕或手肘内侧等脉搏跳动处是没有用的。

英文来源：每日邮报
翻译&编辑：丹妮