化妆不再是女性专利？男性成中国化妆品市场“新宠” China's new online cosmetics stars: men

法新社最近的一篇报道指出，男性正在成为中国化妆品领域新“网红”。随着市场和观念的变化，化妆品不再是女性的专用品，男性稍微化点妆也开始被人接受，由此催生出了一个新兴的男性化妆品市场。

When Jiang Cheng first tried a bit of concealer during his first year of university in China it gave him self-confidence and he was instantly hooked.

江成（音）大一的时候第一次尝试用了点遮瑕霜之后自信了起来，他一下子就对化妆来了兴趣。

Now he is among hundreds of Chinese men sharing beauty tips online and cashing in on the booming male cosmetics industry.

现在，他是中国数百个在网络上分享化妆技巧、从蓬勃发展的男性化妆品行业“分一杯羹”的男性之一。

"I found that putting on make-up is actually quite easy," the 24-year-old said as he gently brushed his face with some foundation.

24岁的江成（音）一边轻轻地在脸上刷粉底，一边说：“我发现化妆其实挺容易的。”

"Women may not fully grasp the concept of male make-up. If a girl puts on my make-up, they may not be able to achieve the effect that I really want," Jiang said.

江成说：“女性不能完全领会男性化妆品的理念。如果女孩用我的化妆品，可能无法达到我真正想要的效果。”

Every weekend, Jiang spends a couple of hours in front of his iPhone at his  makeshift studio in Beijing trying on the latest balms and blush for hundreds of live viewers, who can simultaneously buy the products he reviews.

每个周末，江成都会花几个小时在他北京的临时工作室，坐在他的苹果手机前，面向数百名直播观众试用最新彩妆和腮红，这些观众可实时购买他所评价的产品。

"This color is not that outrageous that men can't wear it safely even in a conservative environment," he explains to his fans.

他告诉粉丝：“这个颜色不太夸张，在保守环境下男性也可放心使用。”

Online beauty stars form an enormous industry in China, with internet celebrities known as "wang hong", or online stars, blurring the line between entertainment and e-commerce.

网上美妆明星在中国形成了庞大的产业，这些被称为“网红”的网络名人模糊了娱乐和电子商务之间的界限。

Companies like Alibaba and JD.com have launched live-streaming platforms that allow viewers to purchase on the go while watching videos. And cosmetics brands pay big money for online celebrities, almost always female, to review their new products.

阿里巴巴和京东等很多中国企业都推出了实时直播平台，观众可以边看视频直播边下单购物。化妆品品牌花大价钱聘请网络名人评价它们的新品，这些网红几乎都是女性。

But now the market and gender norms are changing, with cosmetics no longer seen as exclusively for women and male celebrities showing that it is okay for men to dab on a bit of blush.

但是现在市场和性别标准发生了改变，化妆品不再被看做女性专属，男性网红向人们展示，男性也可以微微擦一点腮红。

Jiang says a firm that manages bloggers pays him around 5,000 yuan per month to feature products from cosmetics companies.

江成说，一家管理博主的公司每个月给他大约5000元人民币，详细展示化妆品公司的产品。

欧睿信息咨询公司表示，中国男性美妆市场未来5年预计增长15.2%，而同期全球市场将增长11%。

Increasingly, foreign firms like La Mer and Aesop work with video bloggers such as "Lan Pu Lan", to promote their products to his nearly 1.4 million followers.

海蓝之谜和伊索等越来越多的国际公司也开始和视频博主合作，比如与美妆博主“兰普兰”合作，将产品推广给他的140万粉丝。

The 27-year-old spends up to 10,000 yuan a month on beauty products and says China's "Little Fresh Meat" -- a term referring to young good-looking men -- is spearheading this trend.

这位27岁的博主每月花费近万元购买美妆产品。他说，中国的“小鲜肉”（年轻貌美的男性）正引领这一风潮。

"We're seeing more men in the media wearing make-up. This will naturally become the norm," Lan said.

他说：“我们在媒体上看到越来越多的男性化着妆。这会自然而然地成为一种常态。”

Despite what appears to be social progress in many of the country's cosmopolitan cities, the video blogger says he still receives hate messages and criticism for appearing in smoky red eyeshadow.

虽然这一趋势在中国很多大都市都被视为一种社会进步，但他还是会因为化了烟熏红眼影收到仇恨信息和批评。

"'Why would a man look like that? Why does a man need to wear make-up?' These are some of messages I get," Lan says, adding he has been called a "sissy" and other slurs.

他说：“为什么男人要化成那样？为什么男人需要化妆？我收到的一些信息都是这么说的。”还有人用“娘娘腔”等侮辱性词语称呼他。

For Jiang, the fear of being ridiculed by his own parents stops him from picking up the make-up brush in front of them.

江成说，他担心遭到父母的奚落，因此不敢在他们面前化妆。

"I don't want to have conflict with my parents. We don't see eye to eye, our values and concepts of life are different.

“我不想与父母发生冲突。我们的想法并不完全一致，价值观和观念也不一样。”

"They are just unable to accept the daily make-up routine for a man," he says.

他说：“他们只是无法接受男人每天都化妆。”

不过，中国男性化妆品公司轩谛的执行董事莫飞表示，这些情况会随着时间改变。

"There will be more and more men who take more care in how they look and the demands will increase. Men in the East are more accepting," Mo says.

他说：“越来越多的男性将更加关注自己的外表，需求会随之增加。东方男性接受度会更强。”

He opened Chetti Rouge in 2005 with few products. Now the beauty company sells a wide variety of cosmetics ranging from foundation to lipstick solely for men and has moved the entire business online.

莫飞于2005年创办了轩谛，当时产品很少。现在这家化妆品公司出售从男士专用粉底到唇膏等各种化妆品，并将全部业务转到线上。

"We saw potential in the market very early on," Mo told AFP, adding that the company expanded to Thailand three years ago.

他告诉法新社说：“我们很早就看到了市场潜力。”轩谛在3年前就将业务扩展到了泰国。

"It might be that men have accepted make-up. For men to browse products in shopping malls, may be for some men a little intimidating, hence the best way for them to buy is online, which is why our sales strategy is mainly on the internet."

“男性可能接受了化妆。有些男性可能害怕在购物中心选择产品，因此对他们来说网购最适合，所以我们主要在网上销售。”

来源：法新社、参考消息网

翻译&编辑：yaning