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风靡各地的米其林美食指南被一位韩国大厨告上法庭:谁让你把我选进去的? Seoul chef Eo Yun-gwon sues Michelin Guide for including his restaurant

中国日报网 2019-11-29 09:01

入选米其林美食指南,哪怕只有一颗星,对大多数餐厅来说都是无上的荣耀。但是韩国首尔的一名大厨却不以为荣,反以为耻,甚至为此公开起诉米其林。这是为何呢?

 

The logo of French tyremaker Michelin with Bibendum or the Michelin Man mascot is pictured during the company's 2011 annual results in Paris February 10, 2012. REUTERS/Charles Platiau

 

Some chefs dream their whole lives of winning a Michelin star. But not Eo Yun-gwon.

有些大厨一辈子都梦想能赢得米其林的一颗星。但Eo Yun-gwon不是这样的大厨。

The South Korean chef is reportedly suing Michelin for including his restaurant Ristorante Eo in their 2019 guide to Seoul, saying that he asked them not to. He is taking action under a South Korean law against public insult.

据报道,这位韩国大厨状告米其林无视他的拒绝,将他的餐厅Ristorante Eo列入《2019米其林首尔指南》。他以韩国法律中的“公开侮辱罪”起诉米其林。

On November 15, Eo announced on his Facebook page that he had lodged a public insult criminal complaint against Michelin Travel Partner in the Seoul Central District Prosecutor's Office the same day.

11月15日,Eo在他的脸书页面宣布,当天他已经向首尔中央地区检察官办公室以公开侮辱罪对米其林旅游合作伙伴提出了起诉。

"I have filed a criminal complaint against Michelin Guide's behavior of forcibly listing [restaurants] against their will and without a clear criteria," he wrote.

他写道:“我已经对米其林指南提出刑事诉讼,控告其违反餐厅意愿强行将餐厅列入美食指南,且没有明确的评判标准。”

"Including my restaurant Eo in the corrupt book is a defamation against members of Eo and the fans. Like a ghost, they did not have a contact number and I was only able to get in touch through email. Although I clearly refused listing of my restaurant, they included it at their will this year as well."

“将我的餐厅Eo列入这本烂书是对Eo成员和粉丝的侮辱。他们就像幽灵一般没有联系号码,我只好通过电子邮件和他们取得联系。尽管我已明确拒绝,他们今年还是随心所欲地将我的餐厅列入了指南。”

defamation[ˌdefəˈmeɪʃn]: n. 诽谤;中伤

 

Chef Eo trained in Milan before returning to his home country.
Courtesy Ristorante Eo

 

In particular, Eo takes issue with the way that Michelin, which is legendarily tight-lipped about its process, judges restaurants.

尤其让Eo不满的是米其林对其评级过程守口如瓶的“传奇”方式。

In another Facebook post, this one dated November 13, Eo wrote, "There are thousands of restaurants in Seoul that are on the same level or better and more honest than those listed on the Michelin guide. It is a sad joke that a mere 170 of them are representing Seoul."

在发布于11月13日的另一个脸书帖子上,Eo写道:“和米其林指南上的餐厅相比,首尔有数千家餐厅的水平与之持平甚至更高,而且更诚信,但却只有170家餐厅可以代表首尔,这真是一个可悲的笑话。”

According to Eo's Facebook page, he emailed Michelin asking them to remove his restaurant from the guide in all categories and demanded that they explain the rating criteria.

根据Eo的脸书页面,他给米其林发电子邮件,要求米其林将他的餐厅从美食指南的所有类别中撤下,并要求他们解释评价标准。

He says he wrote in the email: "Numerous restaurants and the workers are wasting away their soul (money, time, and effort) to pursue the mirage that is Michelin star."

他说他在电子邮件中写道:“许多餐厅和员工都在浪费自己的灵魂(金钱、时间、精力)追求米其林星级这个海市蜃楼。”

mirage[məˈrɑːʒ]: n. 海市蜃楼;幻想,妄想

 

Michelin released its first Seoul restaurant guide in 2016. Their description of Ristorante Eo specifically cited the chef, stating that "each dish clearly demonstrates his insight into the integrity and simplicity of Italian cooking."

米其林于2016年发布了首部首尔餐厅指南。他们对Ristorante Eo餐厅的描述中特别提到了这位大厨,声称“每一道菜都清晰展现了他对意大利烹饪完整性和朴素性的洞察力。”

Eo told CNN by phone, "Michelin guide is a cruel system. It's the cruelest test in the world. It forces the chefs to work around a year waiting for a test [and] they don't know when it's coming."

Eo在电话中告诉CNN说:“米其林指南是一套残酷的系统。它是全世界最残酷的测试。它迫使大厨们一整年都在辛苦等待一个不知何时会到来的测试。”

"It is humiliating to see my restaurant given a rating in that unwholesome book," Eo continued. The Michelin guide, he added, "is blinded by money and lacks philosophy."

Eo说:“看到我的餐厅在那部烂书中获评星级,我感到耻辱。”他补充道,米其林指南“被金钱蒙蔽,缺乏思想”。

 

Ristorante Eo brings traditional Italian cooking to the South Korean capital.
Courtesy Ristorante Eo

 

Although Eo's suit has already made news in the food world, South Korean criminal attorney Shin Ha-na says that the charges are unlikely to stick.

尽管Eo的起诉已经在美食界成为了新闻,但韩国刑事律师Shin Ha-na说,这项罪名不太可能成立。

"There needs to be an insulting statement that would cut down one's social standing," Shin explains to CNN. "Usually, there needs to be curse words. Since the guide didn't print profanity, I don't think the charge will stand."

Shin向CNN解释道:“需要有贬低社会地位的侮辱性言辞,这项罪名才会成立。通常需要有咒骂性质的话。因为米其林指南上没有印不雅言辞,我认为这项罪名不会成立。”

However, Shin notes that if Michelin is found guilty, the company will be ordered to pay somewhere between 500,000 to 3 million won (in damages).

但是,Shin指出,如果米其林罪名成立,法院将令其支付50万到300万韩元(约合人民币3000元到1.8万元)的赔偿金。

Eo isn't the only chef taking issue with the famously secretive food reviewing guide.

Eo不是唯一一个看不惯以秘密考核美食闻名的米其林指南的厨师。

French chef Marc Veyrat also sued Michelin in 2019 -- but in his case, it was for taking a star away.

法国大厨马克·维拉也在2019年起诉了米其林,不过他起诉是因为米其林拿走了一颗星。

The Michelin Guide for France told Veyrat that they were docking one of his stars after reviewing his restaurant La Maison des Bois in the Alps.

《米其林法国指南》通知维拉说,他们在考核了维拉在阿尔卑斯地区的博伊斯梅森餐厅后,决定摘掉一颗星。

dock[dɒk]: v. 扣(分、钱等)

 

Marc Veyrat, for his part, claimed that the incident had to do with a misunderstanding about cheese -- the Michelin reviewer believed a souffle had been made of cheddar, while the chef said it was several other cheeses with saffron added to give it the yellow hue often associated with cheddar.

马克·维拉则声称,这一事件与评审员对奶酪的误解有关——米其林评审员认为一道蛋奶酥是用切达干酪做成的,而大厨称蛋奶酥是用几种其他奶酪加上藏红花做成,这才让蛋奶酥有了形似切达干酪的黄颜色。

He added that he went into a deep depression following the star demotion. "I've been dishonored, I saw my team in tears," he told a French radio station.

他补充道,在餐厅被降级后,他陷入了深深的抑郁。他告诉一家法国电台说:“我声名扫地,我看到我的团队在落泪。”

Veyrat's suit against Michelin will be heard in November in Nanterre, France.

维拉起诉米其林的听证会将于11月在法国南泰尔举行。

No matter what happens with either lawsuit, though, it's clear that Eo isn't going anywhere.

无论两起诉讼的结果如何,显然Eo是不会动摇的。

On his Facebook page, he wrote, "I will work hard to safeguard the integrity of our industry against garbage critics like Michelin or influencers or the media. I will continue my campaign against Michelin."

他在自己的脸书页面上写道:“我将努力捍卫我们的行业完整性不受米其林、网红或媒体等垃圾评论者的侵扰。我会将抵制米其林的活动进行下去。”

 

11月18日,米其林公布了首版北京米其林指南“必比登推介”餐厅名单。上榜的15家餐厅中,除了北京本土风格鲜明的豆汁、爆肚、涮羊肉等外,还有东南亚菜和浙江台州菜。可没想到,这份名单却在国内社交网站上被不少吃货们疯狂吐槽。

有人质疑餐厅评选的合理性,有人觉得米其林指南对北京美食以及背后的美食文化认知不足,甚至还有人讥讽称“这是‘米其林羞辱北京指南’”。

CNN网站援引一名微博用户的评论称:

"Whether a restaurant is good or not should be up to the individual's feelings. So why do we need such Western formalism to speak out for our Chinese restaurants?" 

“一家餐厅是好是坏取决于个人感觉,何需让这种西方形式主义为中国餐厅代言?”

此次大董获得一星餐厅,但并未出席颁奖。大董创始人董振祥撰文反思了米其林对中国餐厅的评选。他指出米其林对于北京小吃更多的是猎奇的态度,这会让国际社会以为中国老百姓的美食水平就是爆肚、下水和内脏,而这显然不是中国美食的主流和大雅。

他写道,米其林发布北京小吃的立意,是讨好北京市场、打开局面;但也难逃其“逐臭”的美食思维,路走偏了,米其林就成了糟粕。

董振祥希望米其林评选对所在地美食有更深入的认知,有更虚心的态度,把傲慢、无知和偏见剔除。

 

英文来源:CNN

翻译&编辑:丹妮

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