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英女王情有独钟 鞋款50年不变(组图)

How the Queen's worn the same shoes for 50 years

中国日报网 2014-06-30 09:24



英女王情有独钟 鞋款50年不变(组图)



And these valuable servants? Not equerries or other royal minions, but her trusty patent leather shoes, the unsung heroes of the Royal household.

It takes a team of four — not including the junior member of Buckingham Palace staff, dubbed ‘Cinders’, who has the job of wearing in her Majesty’s shoes — to produce the classic black numbers (she has other colours in the same style) which cost about £1,000. Yet the Queen certainly gets value for money out of them, wearing the same pair for years and re-heeling them when they wear out.

When she stepped out in Northern Ireland with Prince Philip this week, she was wearing shoes identical to those she first sported five decades ago. Politics change, and so, gradually, does the monarch’s style of dress.

The coats have become narrower, the hemlines slightly longer. Only her Majesty’s shoes remain emphatically the same.

At 88, the Queen relies on her shoes to be less glass slipper, more steadfast slip-on. Comfort and support are key. As a young woman she often wore shoes with a thinner, higher heel, but for nearly 50 years the same low style has kept her sure-footed and age-defyingly nimble.

Known as her ‘work’ shoes, they are handmade for her by shoemaker Anello & Davide of Kensington, West London, from the finest calf leather, usually in black patent with a brass clasp or a small bow.

The team works from a wooden ‘last’ made from measurements of the Queen’s foot, and include a pattern cutter; a clicker, who selects the leather; a closer, who sews the upper part and adds stiffeners; and, finally, a maker, who adds the sole and heel on the last.

Then there’ll be a fitting at the Palace, and — after any final adjustments, including a clean and polish — they’re ready.

The Queen’s selection — she has worked her way through hundreds of almost identical pairs over the years but circulates about ten pairs at any one time — includes plain black leather, black patent, white leather and beige leather, and three designs of evening shoe in satin, silver and gold. They are all hand-dyed and water-repellent.

The heel is always reassuringly chunky and 2¼ in high, with a raised insole to give the royal size 4s an added lift in the arch. If she is likely to be walking on uneven surfaces, the heel will be lower.

But even having them handmade isn’t quite enough to get them fit for a Queen.

Stewart Parvin, who has designed dresses for her for 11 years says that the shoes have to be immediately comfortable and that to achieve this, a member of staff with the same size feet will trot up and down palatial corridors for her until they are suitably broken in.

Parvin says: ‘The Queen can never say: “I’m uncomfortable, I can’t walk any more.” ’

Once she has taken delivery, her dressers Kate or Beverley might also use wooden shoe stretchers to make them more comfortable.

Her shoes have occasionally been ‘worn in’ by Angela Kelly, her devoted personal assistant, as they have almost the same size feet. But now there is the aforementioned junior staff member ‘Cinders’, who is the same size exactly. She wears beige cotton ankle socks when testing the Queen’s shoes, and is only allowed to walk on carpets. The shoes then get one trial run outside to ensure there is no slippage.

Footmen Ian and William are responsible for everyday care, including polishing and storage. After the Queen has worn them, they are aired on shoe trees then stored individually in silk or cotton drawstring bags.






报道称,漆皮鞋被视作女王的“工鞋”,由位于西伦敦肯辛顿的知名鞋履制造商“Anello & Davide”派专人手工打造,鞋面材质为品相最佳的小牛皮,款式通常为黑色漆皮经典小方头辅以黄铜扣。






而这些制作工艺精良、得到悉心护理的“工鞋”会为女王服务多年。“Anello & Davide”公司负责人戴维•海特称:“每年,我们会为女王制作一双或者两双鞋,偶尔还会帮女王翻新鞋面、修理更换鞋跟。在我们的客户里,她不是出手最阔绰的,我们的女王不浪费钱。”

(译者 谌融 编辑 丹妮)


英女王情有独钟 鞋款50年不变(组图) 英女王情有独钟 鞋款50年不变(组图)

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