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还记得美剧《生活大爆炸》中数次提到的中餐厅P. F. Chang's吗?
这家在美国动不动就排队的中餐厅终于在上海开设了中国第一家分店,还给自己起了个中文名字“华馆”。
如果你以为“华馆”的标签只是《生活大爆炸》同款,那就大错特错了。
早在25年前,“华馆”就已经是美国最受欢迎的高端中餐厅之一,目前在全美约有200多家店面,并在海外设有多家分店。
P. F. Chang's China Bistro is an Asian-themed US casual dining restaurant chain founded in 1993 by Paul Fleming and Philip Chiang. As of October 2017, P. F. Chang's operated 208 restaurants in the United States and over 100 in international markets under licensee agreements.
“华馆中式休闲餐厅”是保罗•弗莱明和江一帆于1993年创立的亚洲风味美式休闲连锁餐厅。截至2017年10月,“华馆”在美国拥有208家餐厅,在海外特许经营的餐厅超过100家。
“华馆”在知名旅行网站猫途鹰上获得4.5分好评,许多美国人都是这家店的“死忠粉”。
有别于美国正统中餐早年间不太接地气的印象,“华馆”在美国的成功源于它采用美式烹调,菜品更符合美国人的口味。
加州大学欧文分校历史学教授陈勇(音译,Yong Chen)表示,美国人虽然爱吃中餐,但是他们喜欢的并不是原汁原味的中餐。
“When Chinese restaurateurs started to carry their food to non-Chinese neighborhoods, they also modified it to make it more suitable to the taste of Americans. Over time, such modified dishes became a distinctive tradition itself, known as American Chinese food, which is found in areas that do not have a large Chinese community.”
“中国餐馆开始走进非华人社区时,他们会调整菜单,以迎合美国人的口味。随着时间的推移,这种改良的菜肴自成一派,被称为美式中餐,出现在没有庞大华人社区的地方。”
酸酸甜甜的“左宗棠鸡”(General Tso's Chicken)算是美式中餐的代表。几乎任何一家美国中餐馆的菜单上都有这道菜。
据说,这是美国最受欢迎的湖南菜。美国朋友是不是对湖南有什么误解?湘菜的正确打开方式明明是下图这样的。
当这些“伪中国菜”来到“中餐大本营”后,真的能满足中国“吃货”挑剔的味蕾吗?不少网友对此表示怀疑:
就连外国网友也忍不住吐槽:
不过,“华馆”首席执行官迈克尔•奥桑卢却对中国市场充满信心。他在接受CNBC采访时表示:
“Our food is a perfect fit with the Chinese palette and the way China is headed. I think there’s a dynamic in America where they want to have their taste buds challenged a little bit and that’s how it’s been in China recently, too.”
“我们的食物与中餐风味和中国前进的方向完美契合。我认为,美国人喜欢给味蕾找点刺激,而现在的中国也是这样的。”
“Shanghai is a very cosmopolitan, big city with a great food scene. I’m very optimistic that in the not too distant future, we will look back and say, ‘Wow, that was a great move, and now we have hundreds of restaurants in China!’”
“上海是一个非常国际化的大都市,美食行业在这里大有市场。我相信在不远的将来,我们回看现在时会说:‘哇,这真是明智之举,现在我们在中国已经拥有数百家餐厅了。’”
为迎合中国顾客,上海“华馆”在营销策略上做了一些调整,以吸引更多好奇的中国“吃货”对美式中餐一探究竟。
In China, the menu is considered to be more American-inspired than Chinese original, allowing PF Chang’s to market itself as American cuisine. It serves what Americans have basically always thought of as Chinese food.
中国人认为,“华馆”的菜单更偏向于美式中餐而非传统的中餐,因此“华馆”对自己的市场定位是美国菜。这里提供的是美国人一贯以为的中餐。
The logo of P.F. Chang’s in Shanghai says “An American Bistro,” as opposed to the logo that reads “Asian Flavors” in the US.
美国的“华馆”标志上写着“亚洲风味”,而上海的“华馆”标志却写着“美式休闲餐厅”。
这招营销手段对中国吃货还挺奏效,不少网友都表示想去尝个鲜:
虽然上海“华馆”采用了不同的营销方式,但菜单内容与美国“华馆”几乎一模一样。
So far it seems, diners in Shanghai even have similar taste buds to their Western counterparts. Since opening, the top three items on the menu in Shanghai have been three of the top four dishes in the US: Chang’s chicken, lettuce wraps, and dynamite shrimp.
目前来看,上海“华馆”的顾客和西方“华馆”顾客口味似乎也差不多。自开业以来,上海“华馆”排在前三的菜品分别是招牌鸡、生菜卷和炸虾,而这三道菜均属于美国“华馆”四大人气菜品。
“华馆”目前在国内点评网站大众点评上的评分为四星半。许多光顾过的客人反馈,这里服务周道,环境好,味道不错。
但也有网友评价,菜品味道一般,尝个新鲜就好。
编译:董静
审校:yaning
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