香奈儿奢侈回旋镖惹怒澳大利亚土著，被指侮辱文化传统

近日，法国奢侈品牌香奈儿一款售价高达1460美元（约合人民币10000元）的“回旋镖”在网络上引发论战。这款木头和树脂制成的跨界产品被指侮辱澳大利亚土著文化。回旋镖是澳大利亚土著民族的传统武器，是土著文化象征符号之一，曾被应用到2000年悉尼奥运会火炬设计当中。一起来看看香奈儿的回旋镖究竟为何惹怒了澳大利亚土著。

You've done your shopping but there's just one thing missing, the thing you absolutely don't need but somehow still want to set yourself apart?
你已经扫货完毕，但还少一件商品。它绝对不是你需要的，但是不知道为什么，你就是想拥有它来显示自己的与众不同。

Look no further. French luxury brand Chanel has your back: a boomerang for $1,460. A hefty price tag.
不用再找了，法国奢侈品牌香奈儿懂你，你可以买这款售价1460美元（约合人民币10000元）的天价回旋镖。

Surely it must be designed by a famous indigenous artist. Sadly, no.
人们都以为这么贵的回旋镖肯定是由著名的澳大利亚土著艺术家设计的。不幸的是，事实并非如此。

The indigenous community in Australia says this is yet another example of crass cultural appropriation.
澳大利亚土著群体表示，这是又一个愚蠢至极的文化挪用典范。

The item is listed on Chanel's website under Other Accessories in the 2017 Spring-Summer pre-collection, along with other gadgets like a pair of beach rackets with balls for £2,860.
这款回旋镖被挂在香奈儿网站2017春夏系列预展的“其他装饰品”分类下，与之为伴的小物件还包括一副带球的沙滩球拍，售价为2860美元（约合人民币19700元）。

Spending a little extra to give you that air of luxury should of course not come as a surprise when it comes to brands in the league of Chanel.
让你多花点钱来营造奢侈感是香奈儿这样大牌的套路，这当然没什么可惊讶的。

It's the name you pay for and the perceived status that comes with it and Chanel will likely not be bothered about having that pointed out to them.
你花钱买的是牌子和随之而来的身份感，香奈儿可能不会介意有人拿这点说事儿。

But accusations of offending or even humiliating an entire indigenous culture are a different ball game and the French luxury brand certainly is feeling some heat.
但是冒犯甚至侮辱整个土著文化的指控就另当别论了，而香奈儿的确招来了一些愤怒。

"It's simply a misappropriation of aboriginal culture," Gabrielle Sullivan, chief executive of the Indigenous Arts Code, tells the BBC.
“土著艺术规范”组织首席执行官加布里埃尔•沙利文告诉BBC：“这是擅自挪用土著文化。”

Her organisation has been lobbying against imported and mass produced fake aboriginal artefacts for years.
多年来，该组织一直在游说人们抵制进口的和大规模生产的假冒土著手工制品。

"Chanel is a big company and they really should know better. I don't see how this is different from a cheap fake boomerang sold at the airport. It's just an expensive version of this."
“香奈儿是一家大企业，他们真的应该更好地了解土著文化。我不明白这和机场里贩卖的山寨廉价回旋镖有什么区别，只不过是价格更高而已。”

A cultural symbol
一种文化的象征

Boomerangs have traditionally been used by Australia's indigenous people as a hunting weapon.
自古以来，澳大利亚土著人就将回旋镖当作狩猎的武器。

But they are more than that, explains aboriginal artist Bibi Barba. They carry significant cultural attachments, are used to pass culture and tradition from one generation to the next.
但土著艺术家比比•巴尔巴解释道，回旋镖不仅仅是一种武器。它们承载了重要的文化信仰，并将土著文化和传统一代代传承下去。

"They are a cultural symbol for us," she tells the BBC. "A lot [of] indigenous artists do artwork on them and this artwork is different in different parts of the country, it holds different meaning."
巴尔巴告诉BBC：“对我们来说，这是一种文化象征。许多土著艺术家对它们进行艺术加工，而澳大利亚每个地区的艺术加工不尽相同，包含着不同的意义。”

But it's not just the artwork on the boomerangs that carries cultural signifiers and tradition - even things like the selection process for the wood is of crucial importance.
不仅是这种艺术加工承载了文化符号和传统，甚至连木材的选择过程也至关重要。

Boomerangs are still made by artists in the indigenous community and are popular tourist souvenirs in the country. But most of the boomerangs that tourists carry back home are not made by local communities but mass produced - in many cases not even in Australia.
土著部落的艺术家们仍然在制作回旋镖，在澳大利亚，这是一种非常受欢迎的旅游纪念品。但是大多数游客带回家的回旋镖都不是当地部落制作的，而是批量生产的，甚至很多并非产自澳大利亚。

The Indigenous Arts Code launched a campaign earlier this year to ban imported fake artefacts.
今年早些时候，“澳洲土著艺术规范”组织发起了一项禁止进口假冒手工艺品的活动。

The whole point, Ms Sullivan explains, is that "mass-production is taking away the potential for aboriginal people and artists to sell authentic products."
沙利文解释说，“批量生产的回旋镖抢走了土著人和艺术家制作的正宗回旋镖的市场。”

The lack of cultural sensitivity combined with the hefty price tag is a perfect set-up for cynicism and ridicule.
缺乏文化敏感性再加上高昂的价格，这简直是招来冷嘲热讽的标配。

So what should Chanel do? The backlash on social media in the past two days since the boomerang appeared on their website has already sparked a first reaction.
那么，香奈儿该怎么应对呢？自从该品牌的回旋镖出现在其官网之后，两天内就在社交媒体上引起了巨大反响，香奈儿也首次给出回应。

"Chanel is extremely committed to respecting all cultures, and regrets that some may have felt offended," the French company said in a statement.
该公司发声明称：“香奈儿非常致力于尊重所有文化，对某些文化可能产生的冒犯表示遗憾。”

The luxury copycat
奢侈的山寨品

But just being sorry might not cut it. The countless comments range from witty jokes to straight-forward criticism, calls for apologies but also demand for compensation.
但只是道歉可能不够。从机智的嘲讽到直白的指责，无数评论不仅要求香奈儿道歉，还要求该公司进行赔偿。

It's a demand that artist Bibi Barba couldn't agree more with.
巴尔巴非常赞同这项要求。

"They should donate the money they make with this to the campaign against fake culture so we can lobby the government to do something about this problem," she says.
她说：“他们应该把卖回旋镖赚到的钱捐给打击山寨文化的团体，这样我们就可以游说政府对此采取措施。”

"This current case gets a lot of attention because it's Chanel. But it happens on a huge scale and it happens all the time. Not just with boomerangs but with paintings, didgeridoos and other things."
“当下这个案例得到了很多关注，那是因为主角是香奈儿。但是这种情况始终存在且规模巨大。不仅仅是回旋镖，还有绘画、迪吉里杜管（澳大利亚土著使用的一种乐器）和其他东西。”

And she points out the irony of the bigger picture.
而她从更宏观的角度指出了这件事的讽刺性。

"Chanel and other luxury fashion brands hate it when people steal their logos and make copies of their products."
“香奈儿以及其他的奢侈品牌最讨厌别人盗用他们的商标，生产山寨产品。”

"So it would be a good point for them to make amends."
“所以，这也是让他们作出赔偿的好理由。”

事实上，近年来，众多大牌对于跨界乐此不疲，接连推出各种与奢侈品毫不沾边的天价商品。这种疯狂捞金的做法在赚足眼球的同时，也受到了各界指责。比如，LV的防霾面具：

沙袋：

铅笔：

卡地亚的玉米片：

爱马仕的钢笔：

英文来源：BBC
翻译&编辑：董静
审校：yaning