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夏洛克·福尔摩斯:从未存在 永远流传
Sherlock Holmes, Unlikely Style Icon

[ 2014-11-03 10:27] 来源:中国日报网     字号 [] [] []  
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夏洛克·福尔摩斯:从未存在 永远流传

Long describes Holmes’s wardrobe as that of “a modern English gentleman. The greatcoat and the deerstalker were key components of any gentleman’s wardrobe in England at that time period.” Thanks to the popularity of the Holmes stories, plays, and films, they remain so in the popular imagination today. Holmes’s clothes in their various iterations are both timeless and very much of their times. The three most indelible Sherlocks—Paget’s original illustrations, Basil Rathbone in the 1930s, and Cumberbatch—all wear contemporary dress, yet they are all unmistakably the same character.

One movie poster called Holmes “the original caped crusader.”

Take that coat, for example. In the stories, Holmes was “enveloped” in an Ulster, a long, single-breasted coat with a small collar and an attached a hip-length cape. Conan Doyle also mentioned an “overcoat” (possibly the same one) and a “long grey travelling-cloak.” These have morphed over time into one stately, billowing garment, lending the character the mystery and panache of a superhero. (The poster for the 1965 film A Study in Terror called Holmes “the original caped crusader.”) Rathbone’s iconic tartan coat was tailored for the big screen, with a more mobile, elbow-length cape and a wide, face-framing collar. Cumberbatch’s coat—an off-the-rack number by British label Belstaff—was inspired not by the Victorian ulster but the 18th-century greatcoat, with its high, stiffened collar and wide lapels. Instead of a cape, its double-breasted front and pleated, belted back provide volume and movement.

柯南·道尔对福尔摩斯服装的大篇幅描述向我们展示了“一个现代英国绅士的形象——在那个时代,大衣和猎鹿帽是英国绅士衣柜里不可缺少的元素”。而因为福尔摩斯系列故事、戏剧和电影的普及,时至今日,大家想到福尔摩斯的样子,仍不感到陌生。在各种各样的版本里,福尔摩斯的形象永恒而又兼具各个时期的时代特色。佩吉特原始插图中的福尔摩斯,19世纪30年代巴兹尔·雷斯伯恩(Basil Rathbone)版的福尔摩斯,以及如今的“卷福”版福尔摩斯——这三个迄今为止最成功的福尔摩斯形象都穿着带有各自时代特点的服饰,却又都准确无误地演绎了福尔摩斯永恒的经典。

曾有电影海报称福尔摩斯是“披风斗士原型”。

先说说福尔摩斯的大衣。小说里,福尔摩斯裹着Ulster款大衣——小领单排扣长款外套外搭长及臀部的大斗篷。柯南·道尔还提到了另一款“大衣”(也许就是同一件)以及一件“长长的灰色旅行斗篷”。随着时间的推移,这些装束赋予福尔摩斯这一人物神秘而又气派十足的超级英雄形象——1965年电影《恐怖的研究》( A Study in Terror )海报称福尔摩斯是“披风斗士的原型”(“the original caped crusader”)。雷斯伯恩(Rathbone)版福尔摩斯标志性的格子呢大衣,拥有灵活的及肘斗篷和与下颚轮廓更相称的加宽衣领,专为大荧幕重新剪裁。“卷福”的大衣则是英国品牌贝达弗(Belstaff)的成衣,其创作灵感并非源于维多利亚时代的Ulster款大衣,而是来自18世纪的大衣款式,衣领高而硬,双排扣前襟代替了斗篷,后背的收腰束带设计则使衣服显得更加大气灵活。

 
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