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夏洛克·福尔摩斯:从未存在 永远流传
Sherlock Holmes, Unlikely Style Icon

[ 2014-11-03 10:27] 来源:中国日报网     字号 [] [] []  
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夏洛克·福尔摩斯:从未存在 永远流传

His gentlemanly dress often hid what Conan Doyle called Holmes’s “Bohemian soul.” The melancholy, violin-playing, cocaine-injecting insomniac was betrayed by his off-duty clothes, specifically his collection of dressing gowns, which ranged from “mouse-colored” to a dandyish purple. The camel version on display at the Museum of London is the most subdued of several Cumberbatch wears in the BBC series.

Holmes was well aware of the power of clothing to reveal as well as transform. Anthropometry—a legitimate scientific discipline in the Victorian era—held that physical characteristics corresponded to character traits; Holmes’s high forehead indicated the mighty brain behind it. Clothing, by extension, could do the same—a perfectly reasonable assumption at a time when read-to-wear was in its infancy and those who could afford to still had their clothes custom-made. “Dress is a main character in the stories when it comes to providing clues for Holmes,” Long says. No scuffed shoe or scratched pocketwatch escaped his notice; the smallest sartorial detail could be the key to solving a case. He once deduced an entire psychological history from the “very ordinary black hat” that led him to the famous blue carbuncle.

在福尔摩斯的绅士范穿着之下,隐藏着柯南·道尔所说的“不羁的灵魂”( “Bohemian soul”)。忧郁的小提琴演奏,注射可卡因引起的失眠症,都从他日常的穿着中显现出来,尤其是他的睡袍。福尔摩斯的睡袍很多,从灰褐色到新潮的紫色,伦敦博物馆目前展出的驼色睡袍是《神探夏洛克》里“卷福”所穿的颜色最为黯淡的一款。

福尔摩斯深知服装的力量。在维多利亚时代,人体测量学(Anthropometry)是一个合法的学科。根据人体测量学,物理特征往往反映人的性格特点,比如福尔摩斯的高前额暗示了其强大的大脑,服装也是一样。时尚策展人朗说:“在福尔摩斯思考办案线索时,服装扮演了重要角色。”不管是磨损的鞋子,还是有划痕的怀表,都逃不开福尔摩斯的火眼,衣服上最细微的细节都可能是破案的关键。福尔摩斯曾仅靠一只“非常普通的黑色帽子”就推导出完整的作案心理过程,成就了著名的“蓝宝石案”。

 
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