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女王的衣橱:白金汉宫展出女王服装

Dresses that ruled Britain: The secrets behind the Queen's historic outfits

中国日报网 2016-07-26 09:29

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Her bright suits and bold hats put the Duchess of Cambridge’s nude court shoes in the shade. The Queen may have turned 90, but there is little doubt she is still the ultimate style icon, as a new exhibition at Buckingham Palace from tomorrow reveals.
女王亮眼的套装和大胆出挑的帽子让凯特王妃那双裸色高跟鞋黯然失色。女王已经九十,但毫无疑问她仍是永不过时的时尚偶像。这一点可以在七月二十二日起在白金汉宫举办的一场女王服装展览中展现出来。

Her Majesty wears jewel-coloured outfits to ensure she can be seen by her subjects - and even uses them as a tool of diplomacy. Who knew that she dresses to echo the flag of the country she is visiting so as to flatter her hosts, and sometimes even has their national emblem sewn into them.
为了让她的国民能清楚地看到她,女王一直身穿宝石色的套装,甚至还将这些套装作为一种外交工具。为了对接待她的国家表示友好,她会穿与那个国家国旗颜色一样的套装,甚至有时会将那个国家的国徽缝在衣服上。

Fashioning A Reign: 90 Years Of Style From The Queen’s Wardrobe shows off almost 80 of her outfits and 62 of her iconic hats. Here, we take a look at a glorious selection...
“造就一个朝代:女王衣橱时尚九十年”展示了近80套套装及62顶标志性的帽子。接下来,我们来看看其中的几套精选服装。

THE ONE-SHOULDERED DRESS
露肩礼服

女王的衣橱:白金汉宫展出女王服装

Made from duchesse satin, lace, sequins, diamante and beads, this asymmetric crinoline-skirted gown of pale yellow and turquoise - made by Sir Norman Hartnell, her favourite couturier of the time - is a perfect example of the Queen’s Fifties fashions.
这件浅黄与宝绿色相衬的露肩膨鼓裙礼服是诺曼•哈特内尔设计并完成的,用全丝硬缎、花边、珠片、镶钻、及绿松石制成。哈特内尔是女王当时最欣赏的设计师。这件礼服是上世纪五十年代女王时尚最完美的代表。

Worn on a state visit to the Netherlands in 1958, it features a one-shouldered bodice, the line of which is continued by a gathered panel of satin across the skirt.
女王身穿此礼服于1958年出访荷兰。礼服的特点是其露肩的连衣裙上身,全丝硬缎的镶片将肩部线条延续到整条裙子上。

The dress is appliqued with tape lace forming stylised floral motifs and is richly embroidered with heavy beading.
裙子上还饰有带有风格化的花朵图案的长条蕾丝并且镶满了珠子。

This, says the Royal Collection, is another perfect example of the Queen’s unique championing of British couture.
英国皇家收藏信托表示,这件礼服也完美地展现了女王对英国女士时装的支持。

THE INVESTITURE OUTFIT
授权仪式服装

女王的衣橱:白金汉宫展出女王服装

An ensemble that bears all the hallmarks of Sixties fashion: the princess-line coat hides a tunic as well as an underdress.
这是一套具备了所有六十年代时尚特点的服装:公主线外套遮盖住了女士短上衣和衬裙。

Made in a striking pale primrose yellow, the silk outfit also includes pearls, bugle beads and embroidery on the cuffs, collar and hem.
这件淡黄色的丝绸外套的袖口、衣领和下摆处缝有珍珠和玻璃小珠,并带有刺绣。

The most interesting thing about it, however, is the matching hat made by a favourite milliner of the time, Simone Mirman.
然而,最有趣的还数与之相配的帽子是由当时最受欢迎的女帽设计师西蒙娜•米尔曼制作的。

Her Majesty took inspiration from the medieval age, which suited the surroundings of Caernarvon Castle, where the Queen was investing her son and heir, Prince Charles, as Prince of Wales in July 1969.
她的灵感来源于中世纪。1969年7月,女王在卡那封城堡授予她的儿子即继承人查尔斯王子以威尔士亲王的头衔。她的灵感与卡那封城堡的环境很相配。

The section at the back of the hat represents a ‘caul’, a form of head-dress covering the hair and hung down over the neck.
帽子后面部分采用了“发网”这一形式,即一种覆盖头发并自然垂下至颈部的发饰。

‘The philosophy behind the design is that the Queen would largely be seen from behind as she placed the coronet on the prince’s head, so having good design from the back was just as important as the outfit looking successful from the front,’ says exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut.
展览负责人卡罗琳•德•吉托说:“这样设计是因为当女王将小冠冕授予王子时,大部分时间大家只能看到她的背影,所以帽子从后面看起来好看和服装从前面看起来完美一样重要。”

THE OFFICIAL PORTRAIT GOWN
官方肖像照礼服

女王的衣橱:白金汉宫展出女王服装

With its crinoline-style skirt, nipped-in waist and sweetheart neckline, this gown - a highlight of the exhibition - is a perfect example of the Queen’s style in the Fifties.
这件有裙撑,腰部收紧,鸡心领的礼服是此次展览最精彩的部分。它是女王五十年代时尚的完美展示。

Made by Sir Norman Hartnell, the Queen wore it in 1956 for a series of official portraits taken by Baron Studios.
在由男爵工作室于1956年拍摄的一系列官方肖像照中,女王就穿了这件哈特内尔设计的礼服。

It was fashioned from oyster-coloured duchesse satin and gold lamé, embellished with diamante, pearls, sequins and beads in tones of gold and silver.
它用牡蛎色的全丝硬缎和金银锦缎制成,装饰了深浅不同的金银色镶钻、珍珠、亮片和小珠子。

‘This is about beauty, about the best of British, about elegance,’ says Caroline de Guitaut. ‘It is another superb example of British couture, which the Queen champions.’
吉托认为“这件衣服代表了美,代表了英国最好的一面,代表了优雅,是女王所支持的英国女士服装的又一优秀范例。”

GOWN FIT FOR A HISTORIC VISIT
历史性访问场合礼服

女王的衣橱:白金汉宫展出女王服装

Designed by Savile Row’s Hardy Amies, the Queen first wore this turquoise dress in 1965 when she became the first British head of state to visit Germany after World War II. It is made from organza silk, sequins, silver thread, beads and pearls and was worn to an official state banquet.
萨维尔街的哈迪•埃米斯设计了这件礼服。1965年,女王出访德国时首次穿了这套蓝绿色的衣服。当时女王是首位二战后出访德国的英国首脑。这件衣服的材质有欧根纱、闪光装饰片、银线、珠子和珍珠。女王穿着这件礼服参加了国宴。

The ornate embroidery over the bodice was inspired by the Rococo interiors of the palaces at Schloss Bruhl, which Amies researched prior to the Queen’s visit.
礼服上半身的华丽刺绣的灵感来源于德国布鲁尔城堡内部洛可可风格的室内设计。埃米斯在女王出访前特意做了一番研究。

Her Majesty loved the dress so much so that (with her usual eye for economy), she wore it again for an official portrait by Cecil Beaton in the White Drawing Room at Buckingham Palace in 1968.
女王十分喜爱这件裙子,再加上她不铺张浪费的观念,1968年在白金汉宫白色会客厅由塞西尔•比顿帮她拍摄官方肖像照时,她再一次穿上了这件衣服。

THE QUEEN’S WEDDING DRESS
女王的结婚礼服

女王的衣橱:白金汉宫展出女王服装

When commissioned to design Princess Elizabeth’s 1947 wedding dress, Sir Norman Hartnell set out to produce ‘the most beautiful dress I had made so far’. His magnificent creation is in ivory silk, decorated with crystals and 10,000 seed pearls.
当哈特内尔被任命设计1947年伊丽莎白公主的结婚礼服时,他就开始着手做这件“有史以来做过最漂亮的裙子”。这件华丽的设计采用了乳白色的丝绸,并用水晶和一万粒珍珠点缀。

The accompanying shoes are tiny. Her shoe size has never been officially revealed, but is believed to be a two-and-a-half to three.
配套的鞋子很小。女王的鞋码从未正式公布过,但一般认为是英码2.5码-3码左右。

THE CORONATION DRESS
加冕仪式服装

女王的衣橱:白金汉宫展出女王服装

The Queen’s 1953 Normal Hartnell-designed Coronation dress is regarded as a tour de force of British design.
这件由哈特内尔设计,女王1953年登基加冕时所穿的礼服被认为是英国设计的巅峰之作。

The duchesse satin gown, which took eight months to design and create, features national and Commonwealth floral emblems in gold and silver thread, encrusted with seed pearls, sequins and crystals. It had to be reinforced to support the weight of the embroidery. Unbeknown to the Queen, Hartnell added a four-leaf shamrock on the left of the skirt for luck, and was delighted to see her hand brush it as she walked into Westminster Abbey.
这件全丝硬缎的礼服花费了八个月的时间来设计并且制作,用金银丝线绣上了英国和英联邦的代表花朵,外面装饰有珍珠、亮片和水晶。为了能够撑起外面这么多的装饰,哈特内尔还加固了这件衣服。女王不知情的情况下,哈特内尔在裙子左侧加了一株四叶草,以求幸运之神眷顾女王。而且令他高兴的是,女王在走入威斯敏斯特教堂时,摆动的手拂过了这株幸运草。

‘The Queen wanted a dress that would stand up to the occasion - it was the first coronation fully televised - and the dress she chose was the eighth of nine he sketched. It is timeless,’ said exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut.
吉托说:“女王想要一件能镇得住场面的礼服,毕竟这是第一次全程直播的加冕仪式。女王在哈特内尔的九张手稿中选择了第八件。它是永恒的。”

THE QUEEN’S JUBILEE STYLE
周年庆典服装

女王的衣橱:白金汉宫展出女王服装

One section of the exhibition is devoted to an example of the Queen’s style from each decade of her life - and this green Hartnell silk dress is typical of the Seventies.
展览有一部分是每十年女王穿衣风格的展示。这件哈特内尔设计的绿色丝绸连衣裙是典型的七十年代风格。

Along with a matching silk and straw Simone Mirman hat, it was worn by Queen on several occasions during her Silver Jubilee tour in 1977, when she travelled the length and breadth of the United Kingdom before heading overseas.
1977年迎来了女王的二十五周年纪念之旅。在她出访海外前,她游遍了整个英国。在这期间,她多次穿着这件衣服,同时佩戴了米尔曼设计的丝绸草帽。

The soft silhouette, bow-tie neck and floral print silk are all hallmarks of Seventies design.
柔和的线条、蝶形领结、花朵图案的丝绸都是七十年代设计的标志。

‘There is a strong print, and the dress is made of lightweight silk for the sake of practicality,’ observes the curator of the exhibition..
展览负责人说:“出于实用考虑,裙子使用了轻薄的丝绸,还配上了浓烈的印花。”

THAT OLYMPIC DRESS
奥运礼服

女王的衣橱:白金汉宫展出女王服装

Among the most globally recognisable outfits on show is the dress worn by the Queen at the London 2012 Olympics Opening Ceremony.
女王在2012年伦敦奥运会开幕式上穿的衣服也在展览之列。这套衣服全球闻名。

The gown was designed by the Queen’s senior dresser, Angela Kelly, and made from silk in a peachy-pink colour, embellished with lace, sequins and beads, with matching feather fascinator.
这件礼服由女王的资深造型师安吉拉•凯莉设计,用桃粉色的丝绸做成,加上蕾丝,亮片和珠子的装饰,并且搭配羽毛边饰。

Caroline de Guitaut says: ‘The philosophy behind the design was to have a colour that wouldn’t in any way be representative of any of the countries participating in the Games and also to have striking, strong design lines, so the illusion of the Queen supposedly jumping [out of a plane at the ceremony] wouldn’t be lost.’
吉托说道:“使用桃粉色是因为需要一个不代表任何参赛国家的颜色。这件衣服还需要拥有突出、强烈的线条,这样当女王的替身从飞机上跳下时才够显眼。”

英文来源:每日邮报
翻译:王慧雯(中国日报网爱新闻iNews译者)
编审:yaning

 

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