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Sherlock Holmes, Unlikely Style Icon
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The Museum of London recently debuted Sherlock Holmes: The Man Who Never Lived and Will Never Die, a major exhibition devoted the fictional detective and the real city he inhabited. The items on display include a rare manuscript of Edgar Allan Poe’s The Murders in Rue Morgue—a key influence on Holmes’s creator, Arthur Conan Doyle—and a portrait of Conan Doyle never before seen in public. But alongside these one-of-a-kind historical treasures, visitors will find two curiously modern artifacts: the coat and dressing gown worn by Benedict Cumberbatch in Sherlock, the BBC’s 21st-century reboot of the Holmes stories. While these costumes are obvious bait for fanboys (and fangirls) who might not be clued into the Victorian literary sensation behind the modern-day television sensation, they also serve as a reminder that Holmes’s fashion choices, from page to screen, have always launched real-world trends. In Conan Doyle’s lifetime, Holmes’s name and likeness were used to advertise pipes and shirts as well as tea, toffee, and mouthwash. More recently, Esquire, FHM, and GQ have advised readers on how to get the Sherlock look. The exhibition provides a retrospective of Sherlockian style, investigating how it has evolved while retaining its instantly recognizable Victorian fashion DNA. The museum even commissioned a Scottish textile mill to create a signature tweed in Holmes’s honor, and a concurrent show features fashion photographer Kasia Wozniak’s prints made using a 1890 field camera.
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夏洛克·福尔摩斯:从未存在 永远流传(Sherlock Holmes: The Man Who Never Lived and Will Never Die)——这是英国伦敦博物馆正在举行的首场大型福尔摩斯展的名称。这场关于柯南·道尔(Arthur Conan Doyle)笔下虚构大侦探的展览,还向参观者还原了当时真实的伦敦城——福尔摩斯的伦敦城。本次展出的展品包括埃德加·爱伦·坡(Edgar Allan Poe)小说《莫格街谋杀案》的罕见手稿,该手稿对柯南·道尔创作出福尔摩斯这一人物起到了关键性作用。此外,一幅之前从未公开的柯南·道尔的肖像也在展品之列。而除了这些独一无二的历史宝藏,参观者们还将看到两件奇怪的现代展品:英国广播公司(BBC)出品的系列《神探夏洛克》(Sherlock)中,夏洛克扮演者“卷福”本尼迪克特·康伯巴奇(Benedict Cumberbatch)在剧中所穿的大衣和睡袍。 对那些痴迷“卷福”和《神探夏洛克》却对其原著和维多利亚文学无感的少男少女们来说,这两件戏服的诱惑无疑是巨大的。然而,这也从另一个侧面提醒我们,从书本到荧幕,福尔摩斯一直引领着社会的时尚潮流。柯南·道尔生活的那个时代,福尔摩斯的名字和肖像被用来宣传烟斗、衬衫、茶、太妃糖甚至是漱口水。如今,《时尚先生》( Esquire)、《男人装》(FHM)、《绅士季刊》(CQ)则给读者提供了夏洛克风格的绅士范穿搭指南。本次展览回溯了夏洛克风格的发展历程,研究了夏洛克风格如何在其演变发展的过程中,依然保有鲜明的维多利亚时尚元素。伦敦博物馆还委托一家苏格兰纺织厂特制出一件福尔摩斯纪念款签名花呢大衣,并同时展出了时尚摄影师卡西亚·沃兹尼亚克(Kasia Wozniak)用1890年款便携式相机拍摄的作品。
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