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Sherlock Holmes, Unlikely Style Icon
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Holmes’s methods—baffling to Watson—are well known to modern-day costume curators and conservators. “We are quite Sherlockian in our approach,” Long says. “We regularly look at wear marks, labels, and types of materials.” Inspired by the Holmes stories, Long and “an army of volunteers” scoured the museum’s archives for historical garments with tell-tale clues to the wearer’s identity. A pair of men’s evening shoes on display has circular wear marks on the soles, suggestive of dancing; a woman’s blouse with ink-stained sleeves recalls the one that helped Holmes identify his client as a typist in A Case of Identity. A master of disguise, Holmes had an arsenal of unlikely alter egos, from an old lady to a “simple-minded Nonconformist clergyman.” Long notes that although Holmes’s borrowed makeup and wardrobe techniques from the Victorian stage, his disguises were not particularly theatrical or exotic, but “the disguises of the everyday.” In Sherlock, Cumberbatch has convincingly posed as a French waiter, a Guardsman, a hoodie-clad heroin addict, and a Pakistani terrorist. |
福尔摩斯的这些方法对华生来说很费解,但是对于当代时尚策展人和管理员来说却是众所周知的。朗说,“我们的方法和夏洛克很像。我们会经常查看磨损痕迹、商标、用料类型。”受福尔摩斯故事启发,朗和一群志愿者用一些能说明穿戴者身份的线索为博物馆标记了历史服装。一双男式晚宴鞋有圆形的磨损痕迹,是跳舞的记号;一件袖子被墨水弄脏的女士衬衫让人想起了在《身份谜案》中福尔摩斯也曾用同样的方法辨认出他的客户是一名打字员。 福尔摩斯可以称得是一个伪装大师,他能完美演绎多种不同的个性,从老妇人到“头脑简单的新教牧师”。朗表示,福尔摩斯所用的化妆和着装技术虽源自维多利亚时代,却从不显得夸张或奇异,相反,它们非常“符合日常生活”。在《神探夏洛克》里,“卷福”已经成功地伪装过法国侍者、英国卫兵、身着连帽衫的瘾君子以及巴基斯坦恐怖分子。 |
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