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Sherlock Holmes, Unlikely Style Icon
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This lasting fashion legacy is all the more extraordinary considering how stingy Conan Doyle was with descriptions of dress. Our image of Holmes comes almost entirely from his illustrator, Sidney Paget, whose elegant, angular prototype influenced every incarnation thereafter. Though he didn’t always share them with readers, however, Conan Doyle clearly had firm ideas about Holmes’s appearance; he once protested that a poster for the 1899 play Sherlock Holmesmade the detective look “about five feet high” and “badly dressed.” And Timothy Long, the Museum of London’s fashion curator, points out that Conan Doyle used a “lost language” of fashion. “The modern audience reading these stories often overlooks clues that were very obvious to contemporary readers,” he says. “Putting Watson in a morning coat or a frock coat indicated the time of day, for example.” |
夏洛克风格的时尚传奇源自柯南·道尔对服饰细节近乎苛刻的描摹。我们对福尔摩斯形象的认知几乎全都来自西德尼·佩吉特(Sidney Paget)的插图。他画笔下的福尔摩斯原型优雅、消瘦,影响了此后每一个福尔摩斯形象的创作。尽管柯南·道尔不常与读者交换意见,但他显然对福尔摩斯的形象有自己的理解。他曾对1899年舞台剧《夏洛克·福尔摩斯》海报中的夏克洛形象提出异议,称海报中的福尔摩斯看上去只有“约5英尺高”(1.524米),并且“衣着邋遢”。伦敦博物馆时尚策展人蒂莫西·朗(Timothy Long)指出,柯南·道尔在书中用了很多有关时尚的“暗语”。“现代读者在读福尔摩斯时,常会忽略那些对作者同时代读者来说显而易见的线索。比如,作者描写华生穿的是晨礼服还是长礼服,其实就已经暗示了时间。”
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